| Welcome to my G4 PowerMac case conversion! |
| Project kick-off: |
March 2007. |
| Last modified: |
July 17 2008. |
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Mission: Ever since MDS, I have had an affinity
for the G4 case. The way it opens, the handles, the sleek silver
plastics....
Whatever.
My intention is to build a well-spec'd PC inside an Apple G4
PowerMac case. It'll take some significant modification to the case and
some forward planning. I've seen several
other
sites where
people have done this out of spare parts. Having no PC parts
to speak of, I am going to have purchase new, so I want to make it something
worth
while, and somewhat futureproof, on the tightest of budgets. I'm buying
the gear as I go along, so don't expect it to be ready next week! |
| Notes: |
- The G4 motherboard and the PC motherboard have completely
different layouts and mounting points. So we're going to have to
do a significant
amount of work to make this thing fly.
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- Given the difference in layouts of the boards, we anticipate
having to overcome a few issues: CPU hitting the power supply,
RAM hitting the optical drive when the case is closed.
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- The PC motherboard has the rear I/O ports (keyboard/ mouse,
sound, LAN etc...) closer to the PCI slots, so the G4 I/O panel
won't suit. With the G4 panel, we'd end up having some I/O outlets
on the new motherboard inaccessible
from
outside the case.
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- The motherboard we use has to be a microATX form factor. The larger
ATX won't fit the case. But that's not a problem. There are heaps
of
really
good
boards
out
there,
designed
for use in small gaming and media PCs.
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| Ok, enough of that. I'm just gonna jump straight in, and work around
these issues as they appear. |
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| Why am I doing this? If you have to ask
why, you won't understand. But I made this website for anyone else interested
in undertaking such a project. I found the sites of others' very useful,
so this is my contribution. |
| Tools: |
- Dremel, or any rotary power tool with cutting discs and grind
stone bits.
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- Drill with 2 - 2.5mm drill bits for drilling the new motherboard
mounts.
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- Screwdriver, for disassembly.
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- Hex-key, for removing the side panels and handles.
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| The Subject |
| Basic stuff. Some 'pre-modding' shots of the case. Notice
the sticker residue on the top? Fear not! We'll cover that up with
a blow-hole. |
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| I picked up this Quicksilver case from TradeMe
for NZ$45. Came in fair
condition, stripped from all electrics except the internal fan & speaker,
power buttons and the IDE cables. Just what I need! |
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| Frontal shot. Hopefully this will look similar by the end of the
mod. |
Back end shot. I expect this to change significantly.
The I/O ports
will be different, as may the power supply . |
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| Strip the plastics |
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Removing the plastics was fairly easy. A couple of tricky
items, like the locking bar at the back and the rear panel,
took a bit of care not to damage the plastic. The rear panel had several
clips that I had to hold down simultaneously. Once you have all the
plastics off, store them in a bag or box until you're ready to reattach
them to the finished project.
Also notice the wire running around the outside of the case. That's
the aerial for the Airport. Get rid of it. |
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| Gutting the case |
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Strip everything from the case to make it easier to work with.
You can see that I have left the bracket on the left of the base.
This usually holds extra long PCI cards in an G4. We won't have a use
for it in our PC so it is a good candidate for removal, but I have
left it in place for now.
In
this picture, you can also see that I have already started removing
the old motherboard mounts. |
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| Removing
the old motherboard mounts / stand-offs |
 |
You'll need your Dremel and you'll go through several cutting discs.
Remove the old mounts as cricled above. The ones circled in lighter
red to the right, I had to remove by drilling from behind. So, if you
don't have a Dremel, you could just drill out all the old mounts.
Also note, between the two righthand mounts, close to the I/O plate, there were
two metal tabs that I also cut off to allow the motherboard to sit properly.
Be sure to remove the plastic mat from the base of the case first. It is part
of the door locking mechanism. The picture
above
still has it in place. |
| Lots of sparks and steel dust later... |
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| Be sure to clean up the metal dust well. It's bad
news if it gets onto your new board / cpu... A can of compressed air
should do the trick. |
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| Sizing up the motherboard |
| I purchased an ASUS (M2N-MX) motherboard for this project.
AM2 socket, SATA, HyperTransport, PCIe, and the very important MircoATX
form-factor. Sweet! Thing with many new boards with SATA, is that they
only have one IDE channel. This will invariably be used for the optical
drive, which leaves you needing a SATA hard drive, which is a pain
in the ass when you come to install XP on it. Thanks Microsoft! |
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I inserted a couple of PCI cards to help line up the
board on the base. You can see the board resting on a piece of card
board, just to give it some height.
Lining up the board quickly revealed the first
problem I mentioned above. Whereas the rest of the I/O ports
can be accomodated by the G4's I/O area, the sound ports are obstructed
by
the pillar next
to the first PCI bay. The sound ports
on the board are too close
to the
first
PCI
slot making them inaccessible from outide the case. I'm going to
have
to hack
the pillar seperating the I/O panel from the PCI bays.
Also note that
the board would not sit straight until the G4's I/O panel
is
removed. This prevented me from marking the required positions for
the mounts for the motherboard. |
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| I marked out the area I would need to cut out of the back of the
case and attacked it with my Dremel. |
Note the need to chop into that pillar, and
also that it is double sided. So We'll need to attack it from the rear
as well to allow access the sound ports.
Cool. So far, so good. |
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Testing the fit again. The motherboard lines up much nicer
now, sitting flush with the rear of the case. I ended up with gaping
spaces around the I/O ports, but the panel that came with the board
should cover that up nicely.
The sound ports in the right hand photos are obstructed by that pillar I keep
mentioning. Will fix that soon.
From here, I marked the location of the mount points using a sharpened pencil,
poked through the holes in the board, then packed it away and got ready for some
more Dremeling and drilling.
|
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An important thing to note: the plastic mat is part
of the door locking mechanism and needs to move. After drilling holes
in it to accomodate the new mounts, you'll need to enlarge them into
an oval shape to accomodate the movement for opening/closing the
door. If you don't do this, you won't be able to open the case easily.
After sorting that out, I was able to place the motherborad in
it's "final" position. In the picture here, I still need to deal to
that pillar to make the sound ports easy to use.
I had to use 3 washers
for each motherboard mount point to give it some hieght, needed to
clear the plastic mat. This was an issue as the CPU rentention module
on my board has a base beneath the board which hit the plastic mat.
Notice I was able to find a suitable power supply that required
no modification to the case. It's an AcBel 400w unit picked up from
these guys.
At this point I closed the case and peared inside to measure how much
room I had between the CPU and power supply. This defines how much
space I have for CPU, heat sink and fan. Looks like around 15cm.
Next I'll tackle the optical drive, but first I'll need some RAM to
collide with. |
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| The Optical Drive |
It became apparent pretty quick when I
closed the side door that the optical drive was going to be a problem.
For starters all 4 RAM slots were obstructed, not to mention the
power connector for the board. Think I could have done a better job
with
motherboard selection!
First I tried just lowering the drive in the case. I even cut the
case to this end before realising that some of the SATA ports and
a few other motherboard components would be partially obstructed.
I needed a drive that was less than 14cm, ideally
13cm. No standard drive out there at that size, not that I could
fine anyway. After some further consideration I conceded that I would
have to use a slim line optical drive. In doing so, I could mount
it in the original position.
So I cut the case for nothing! Lesson: figure out what you're going
to do, before you cut steel. Not to big a deal in my case since it'll
be covered by the plastics.
I opted for
a slot loading drive. This makes it easier to use and I can cut
the Apple plastic bezel (for zip drive) so that a CD can be inserted
instead. To use a slime line drive, I also had to get an adapter
as pictured, but it came cheap.
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Putting it all together |
The system is almost complete (for now) in these pics. I don't
yet have budget to put a decent graphics card in, so I'm going to
use the onboard video for now.
Still to do:
The top plastic needs a hole cut for the blow hole fan.
The rear plastic needs a slight trim to allow easy access to the
sound ports.
Other parts that went in:
AMD Athlon X2 Dual Core 4800+ (the energy efficient version).
250 GB Seagate Hard disk (SATA)
I also decided to paint
the door. After removing the old motherboard standoffs, i notice
the metal becoming discoloured, almost rust like. A quick spray with
some black enamel should give it a nice professional look too. |
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Some final pics |
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To the left you can see the deployment of the hard disk. I installed a firewire PCI card to enable DV capture. Only thing to watch out for is the HDD serial ATA cable. Luckily the cable that came with my drive gave the case enough room to close, but I have read you can get right-angle cables.
To the right, a photo showing some wiring and the IDE ribbon for the optical drive. You need a nice LONG ribbon for this project. If possible, use the original Apple one. Also note the power supply cable to the mainboard. I had to use two PSU extension cables joined together (note the black plastic). |
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Left: A closer pic of the optical drive bay. Note how much I had to cut out! The drive itself is mounted on some hard foam and secured with some silver cloth tape at the back, which you can see in the photo. Right: Another shot of the rear panel.
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I will get around to attaching the front bezels one day!
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Use the form on my contacts pages, and don't forget to include your email. |
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Operating System |
After finding that I needed a floppy drive to load additonal drivers to install Windows XP on this machine (SATA drives are not supported) I opted for Linux.
I have long been a Linux fan (Mandrake 6 or 7 was my first encounter), not a guru, but enough experience to tinker and get a decent system running.
This time I decided to trial Ubuntu, the flavour of the year... All I can says is, everything worked.
If you've been thinking about trying Linux, not is the time. Ubuntu brings Linux to the most basic computer users, yet is flexible enough to keep advanced users happy. Best of all, it is free, open and well supported through the Ubuntu forums. |
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